Carnival time in Spain
It is carnival time in Spain. From now until Ash Wednesday (February 21st this year) — and in some places a little longer — it is a wild, weird and wacky season of masks, parades and parties. That is probably what gave the celebration its name: carne vale, Latin, meaning “meat, farewell.” Apokreo, its Greek name, has the same meaning, while German Fastnacht, literally “fast night,” refers to the the night before fasting begins on Ash Wednesday.
In Barcelona
Every year the markets get into carnival mood and organise a number of activities, ranging from “Dijous Gras” (February, 15th) [literally “Fat Thursday” and similar to Shrove Tuesday in British tradition] to “burying the sardine”. Dijous Gras is the day when a variety of activities related to the tradition of eating eggs and botifarra (Catalan sausage) take place. So, this Thursday, the Mercat del Ninot is holding a Dijous Gras omelette competition. The competition has three categories: the best, the most attractive and the most original. From one o’clock you will also have the chance to try some omelettes, along with egg botifarra and llardons (crackling), swilled down with some beer. The Abaceria Central de Gràcia is also organising an omelette competition and omelette tasting, from 11 a.m. And the Mercat del Clot, decorated like the Far West, is organising a big “botifarrada”, where everyone can eat botifarra, in the square in front of the market, starting at 6,30 p.m.
Other popular activities taking place at the city markets over the next few days include batuka at the Boqueria, various activities for kids at the Poblenou, Fort Pienc and Sagrada Família markets and even chocolate tasting at the Abaceria Central de Gràcia. Apart from omelettes and botifarra, sardines are the other main food in carnival tradition and, as such, you will feature in the market activities. In accordance with tradition, Barceloneta market will “bury the sardine” and give shoppers and visitors the chance to taste them. La Mercè and the Abaceria Central will also be holding a traditional sardine tasting, while Sant Martí and Provençals markets will be donating 40 kilos of sardines each to burying the sardine in the Verneda neighbourhood.
This year the main event for carnestoltes (carnival), the Gran Rua city procession (Saturday, February 17th), is at a different time and place: The parade will leave from the crossroads of Carrer Gran de Gràcia with Plaça de Lesseps at 20.30 hrs, and end at the Jardinets de Gràcia. Therefore, people from all over the city can join in. People can go to their local procession first and then on to the city procession. This year, forty different groups are taking part in the procession, with more than 1,500 people taking part.
King Carnestoltes arrives in the city on Dijous Gras (carnival Thursday), in Clot, where a procession of ambassadors will go from Plaça de Sant Josep de Calassanç to Plaça de Font i Sagué, where King Carnestoltes will give the opening speech. This will be followed by an invitation, from those of the Mercat del Clot, to a botifarra (sausage feast!) with beans, garlic sauce and a drop of wine for all those present.
On Friday (February, 16th), King Carnestoltes will be in the Rambla de Prim with a batucada group, with music and dance.
On Wednesday, February 21st, there is the Enterrament de la Sardina, a traditional celebration, literally “burying the sardine”, which, in theory, marks the end of the carnival. The event will be in Horta, with entertainment and activities as a preliminary to the parade to mark the end of the Year of Commerce. The finale, in the market in Horta is a secret.
After the Enterrament de la Sardina, there is the Ravalstoltada, in Raval on Saturday, February 24th, and the Carnavalada in Barceloneta, on Sunday, February 25th.
The Ravalstoltada starts at midday with a series of workshops to prepare for the fiesta, such as the decoration and music, in Plaça de Folch i Torres, and there is also an omelette-making competition. The parade is in the afternoon, based on the theme of the universe, for the Barcelona Science Year 2007, which includes an awards ceremony for the winning floats.
The Carnavalada in Barceloneta starts early on February 25th, with floats parading through the streets, and a fancy dress competition. There will also be performances with brass bands and music groups.
And don’t forget, the official music for the carnival i La rumba del carnaval (Doing the Carnival Rumba), a light-hearted song created specially by Gertrudis.
Useful Info
Carnival in Barcelona
In Madrid
Madrid’s carnival was revived in 1976 after being quashed for 40 years under Franco’s regime. Carnaval action in Madrid is still growing and remains centered around venues like the Casino and the Circulo de Bellas Artes.
The main event is a huge parade along the Paseo de la Castellana. There are also fancy dress competitions and an evening concert in the Plaza Mayor. The end of Carnaval on Ash Wednesday brings on the traditional ‘Burial of the Sardine’ parade, with the participants all dressed in black carrying a cardboard sardine in a coffin which is theatrically and mournfully buried at the Fuente de los Pajaritos, marking the beginning of the fasting and reflection associated with Lent.
Useful Info:
Madrid Tourist Office
Phones: 91 588 1636 or 91 366 5477
In Cádiz
Carnival in Cadiz is said to be the third largest Carnival celebration in the world (after Rio de Janeiro and Trinidad). Both European jet-setters and local lowlifes know and crave the intense energy that pervades the city during the ten days leading up to Shrove Tuesday. It seems that all the freaks and fools within a thousand-mile radius show up to partake of the fun. Many visitors choose to snooze on park benches or stay up all night instead of booking hotel rooms.
Cadiz is a quiet and serene city on the Andalusian coast, except when it plays host to Spain’s ultimate party. The fun began in the 17th century when the city of Cadiz tried to keep up with the decadent carnival celebrations in Venice and Genoa. The crews of the Spanish galleons that brought back gold and silver to Cadiz from the New World also brought back a variety of musical influences that are still evident at today’s Carnival revelry. African and Creole rhythms, sambas, rangeuras and rustic Colombian tunes all intermingle in the streets with local Andalusian jaleo songs and traditional flamenco music.
As it often happens in Spain, preparations for Carnival seem a bit last-minute and haphazard, but everything comes together beautifully in the end. Black-clad abuelas hang garlands across the tiny, twisting alleys, and street vendors set up their displays of toys and fruit just an hour or two before the throngs descend. Stages are set up in every plaza for musical acts, comedians and children’s performances. And there are also rock concerts featuring some of Spain’s most popular groups in the Plaza de Catedral. Another treat is the daily “La Toronda” (The Thunder), a massive, eardrum-shattering of firecrackers that takes place in the Plaza San Juan de Dios.
For those seeking more conventional pleasure, the Carnival roster includes numerous raucous parades, dancing children decorated in costumes and beauty pageants. And, in the Parque Genrives, there is a midway of rickety carnival rides that one must see to believe! However, most people show up simply to drink and cavort in the streets. It becomes so crowded in the tiny, cobblestoned streets that at times the city looses shape and metamorphoses into a mountain of people.
Useful Information
Carnaval de Cádiz
