Holy Week in Seville
Holy Week in Seville: Seville Apartments
I haven’t been in Seville during the Holy Week but my friends who have been told me that is an experience that you should have at least once in your lifetime because the processions are breathtaking. The Holy Week of Seville is the staging of the Passion of Christ in different episodes which are shown in the realistic sculptures that are front images in the big carriages accompanied by ‘nazarenos’, members of a brotherhood; penitents. The origin was found in the doctrines of the Council of Trent. First they adopted the form of a ‘way of the cross’, later the special devotion to certain images resulted in the creation of religious associations. During the Baroque period they worked as a base for organizations of guild nature and therefore they kept the names of the guilds as their reason for their origin.
The next step was when these brotherhoods became the main bonding element of the neighbourhood or the parish. While La Macarena, San Bernardo, and San Julian are among the oldest brotherhoods, San Gonzalo, Tiro de Linea, Nervion are more recent, they all share the same concept of neighbourhood and brotherhood. In any case and independent of the historic origin of each brotherhood, at the present, the main obligation of these religious associations is to bring their members during the penitence period from their headquarters or chapel to the Metropolitan Cathedral and from there back to their church. This route is planned prior to the procession and is subject to a very strict time schedule which cannot be changed. If for any reason, such as weather or a greater force the procession cannot be completed the float is cancelled and the brotherhood will have to wait a whole year and try it again.
The Streets of the Holy Week
You can get a full list of streets here. And these are some of the main streets:
Campana
For many years the Townhall kept the tools to extinguish fires in a warehouse in this street. Due to this, there was a bell to alert the workers and neighbours in case of emergency.
Sierpes
Its name comes from the 16th century author, L. Peraza, who wrote: Called this for the jaw, some might say of a serpent, that is hung in a meson in this street. That withstanding, the name could also have derived from the winding street layout. One of the most representative streets in Seville, as it’s the site of the prison where Miguel de Cervantes probably wrote El Quijote.
Catedral
Located at the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes s/n. Key location for Seville Holy Week as it is part of the official procesiones route, along with Calle Campana and C. Sierpes.
Plaza Salvador
Rectangular shaped square. Most notable is the arcade of its west side, the only part that remains of the whole arcade that surrounded the square. During the Golden Age of the Spanish literature, this was a place for selling construction materials, as it is shown in El Guzmán de Alfarache by Mateo Alemán. It is said that this space was used for centuries as graveyard. That is why it is also called Plaza del Cementerio (Graveyard Square). In the centre of the square there is a sculpture of Martínez Montañés.
Plaza San Francisco
Next to the arquillo, or ‘little arch’, at the entrance to the Convento de San Francisco (convent) there is a cross set into a jasper stone pedestal. This has stood there since 1694, although in 1840 the cross was damaged and therefore substituted by the existing one.
Plaza Duque de la Victoria
Some impressive buildings, many of them the residences of important noble families, surrounded this square. The Palace of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia occupied the Western side in the 15th century. Sánchez-Dalp built his Casa-palacio here. To the East, the Palace of the Cavalieri was built. The Tello and Solís families had their main residences here. One of the lords of the Solis family is considered to have inspired the story told in the drama ‘El Médico de su Honra’ written by Calderón de la Barca. All the houses-palaces were demolished in the 60s for the construction of new shopping centres.
Every morning you can and must visit the brotherhoods that parade that day from their temple. It is the best way for sensing the atmosphere and feeling the excitement prior to the rocession’s departure. Worth mentioning is the ”Besamanos del Gran Poder” (Hand Kissing of the Great Power) which starts Palm Sunday and finishes Holy Wednesday. It is highly recommended that you try to see the float on Palm Sunday to gain a better understanding of the true significance of the “Gran Poder” and how deep the beliefs of the people of Seville are.
There are 58 Fraternities of Penitence registered at the General Council of Brotherhoods and Confraternities responsible for the processions during the Seville’s Holy Week. Here are some of the Fraternities of Penitence and you can also check the whole list here.
El Silencio
Ancient Brotherhood of the Nazarenes of Seville, Ancient Pontificial and Royal Confraternity of Our Lord Jesus of Nazareth, the Holy Cross in Jerusalem and Holy Mary of the Conception. It was created in 1340 in the Parish Church of Omnium Sanctorum. As from 1578, the Brotherhood has resided in the church of San Antonio Abad. Throughout the centuries, its members have included such illustrious names as Murillo, Mateo Alemán, Juan de Mesa and Queen Isabel II. Its temple is the Royal Church of San Antonio Abad, situated in Calle El Silencio. The church as we know it today was built in 1730 based on plans drawn up by Diego Antonio Díaz, although it actually dates back to 1575 when the former hospital of San Antonio Abad was joined to the chapel of the Brotherhood of El Silencio in 1791.
El Amor - La Borriquita
Ancient Pontifical Confraternity and Royal Brotherhood of Nazarenes of the Sacred Entrance into Jerusalem, the Holy Christ of Love, Our Lady of Help and the Apostle Saint James. Its temple is the Church of La Anunciación, which was part of the old University (1565-78). The original plans for the church were drawn up by Bartolomé de Bustamante and subsequently put into effect by Hernán Ruiz II, the same architect who made the finishing touches to the famous Giralda tower in Seville. The church was once the university chapel until it was decided to move the university’s activity to its current location. In 1970, the crypt became known as the Panteón de Sevillanos Ilustres (The Pantheon of Illustrious Sevillians) and is the final resting place of, amongst others, the Ponce de León family, the Perafán de Ribera family, along with such literary figures as Alberto Lista, Bécquer and José Gestoso.
El Buen Fin
Royal, Illustrious, Ancient and Franciscan Sacramental Brotherhood and Confraternity of Nazarenes of the Holy Shroud, Holy Christ of the Just Cause, Our Crown Lady of La Palma, Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Anthony of Padua. Its temple is the 17th century Convent Church of Saint Anthony of Padua, situated in Calle San Vicente. Work was started around 1600 by Andrés de Oviedo, based on plans drawn up by Diego López Bueno. The church has three naves, the central nave having a barrel vault ceiling. The main altar is presided over by the Franciscan Saint Anthony, sculpted by Felipe de Rivas in the 17th century. El Cristo del Buen Fin (Christ of the Just Cause) is situated on the neo-classic altar in the left-hand nave of the church.
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